on my last night in copenhagen, i ended up getting a free ticket to the tivoli symphony orchestra concert (courtesy my landlord/roommate, who plays the tuba in aforementioned orchestra…). it was kind of nice to come full circle…i’ve visited tivoli in all of the other seasons, and it was fun to see it packed that night with the beautiful-late-spring-weather- outdoor-enjoyment crowd. : ) i would really love to be able to stay longer in cph…


dyrehave and bellevue

May 30, 2008

so the days are winding down…and i finally took the day trip i’ve been wanting to do all spring. i took my bike on the train and spent the day in/near klampenborg, visiting dyrehave and bellevue. jægersborg dyrehave (or ‘deer garden’) was once a private reserve for king frederick iii and is now managed as a forest park. about 2000 deer (of three different varieties! some albino…) live and roam free there (within the park boundaries) – it was really fun to be biking along and see them running through the woods. they’re not tame enough that you can walk right up to them, but are calm enough for a few action zoom photos. : ) after biking through dyrehave, i went to the beach at bellevue, where danish architect arne jacobsen designed a number of buildings in the 1930s, including some lovely and simple beach structures…which served as a nice background for some sunning and a little beach nap.

all of the park entrances have these official red gates

i’ve been told that peter liep’s house is a nice place to stop for a cup of hot chocolate in the park…but maybe not on such a gorgeous and sunny day. still, the decor is fitting…

also within the park is bakken, the world’s ‘oldest existing’ theme park…

the landscape in dyrehave is really great – lots of giant old trees…and some giant old tree ruin

my first close-up deer encounter

the lovely landscape…

…and the deerscape!

this was a great sight…two deer dashed out into the meadow in front of these riders

the ‘hermitage,’ a royal hunting lodge added by one of frederick’s successors

riders and the hermitage castle/detail of the lodge roof

on the other side of the hermitage, there were tons of schoolkids picnicking on the hill, looking out toward the øresund

landscape and hermitage/deer in the meadow, heading for the herd

deer crossing!

next stop was the harbour near klampenborg station…

explorer knud rasmussen looks out over the sound/looking down the beach toward bellevue

two residential typologies at bellevue

view of one of jacobsen’s beach structures

jacobsen structure details

changing/showering pavilions

beach-facing elevation detail – nice and simple! and white – very danish…

my napping spot…a perfect end to a lovely trip!

i was lucky enough to have two friends visiting at the same time last week – i’ve traveled in china, japan, and taiwan with both liz and makie, so it was really fun to spend some time with them here in copenhagen. i think it’s been more than two years since we’ve all been in the same place at the same time! since we’re all in design fields, i got to take them on my now-practiced architour of copenhagen… now with plenty of breaks for fika:

me, liz, and makie take a fika break near the central station

me and liz at lagkagehuset in christianshaven (this is my favorite bakery…they make amazing rhubarb muffins!)

but we did more than just eat pastry! me and liz use our map recognition skills in christiania

makie and i taking photos at the royal danish academy for fine arts school of architecture

liz and makie at the christianshavn canal

me and liz at the danish architecture center

makie and her friend clover on playground equipment near the tietgen dormitory

those chairs spin like crazy!

makie, clover, and liz on the see-saw

testing out the main design features of prags boulevard…lampposts and the prags chairs

makie and i are ready to devour a long-anticipated brunch at kvarterhuset in holmbladsgade

clover hard at work promoting the architour

me, makie, and clover at the kastrup public bath/liz and i at the gemini residence

clover gets a swimming lesson at kastrup public bath/makie and clover

a lovely end to a day of archi-touring…

…and a lovely place for a nap!

liz and andrea and i visited copenhagen’s botanical gardens (botanisk have) the other day, which were really impressive and beautiful! here’s the blurb from the garden website:

Botanical Garden & Museum is situated in the heart of Copenhagen. The garden is a living museum and room for the largest collection of living plants in Denmark. The main purpose is to maintain a taxonomically, geographically and esthetical diverse collection of plants to be used in research and teaching and for public information. The museum holds one of the largest herbaria of plants and fungi from all over the world.

we really enjoyed it – this time of year there are lots of vibrant colors, and the park itself is like a flowery oasis right in the heart of the city. i think my mom (who is an avid gardener) would really have enjoyed this. my favorite parts were the palm house and the plant exhibitions that were arranged throughout the gardens (with titles like: “exotic spices”, “poisonous plants in nature”, “plants from the bible”, “tropical fruits”, “botany in the golden age”, and so on).

as an end-of-the semester treat, scan|design arranged a trip to norway for us (‘thank you, scan|design!’). we took the ferry (= cruise ship) from copenhagen to oslo, and then marianne, our intrepid mentor, showed us around lillehammer and and the capital for three days. our trip coincided with norway’s national day, may 17, so we got to see traditional costumes, parades, and lots of other celebratory goings-on. in lillehammer, we got to visit maihaugen, an open-air museum that had an exhibit on norwegian history as well as several examples of traditional wooden buildings. after our day in lillehammer, we took the train back to oslo, where we visited the vigeland sculpture park (which i visited last november and love) and the newly opened operahuset, which was fantastic (and i have to say better than copenhagen’s…particularly in a roof-to-roof comparison). we had a great time, ate some delicious lefse, sampled different foods-in-a-tube (including, yes, the always-wonderful nugatti), and enjoyed some blueberry muffin ice cream at anker brygge, oslo’s new harbourfront development/restored warehouse district. having visited norway once in the winter, it was really nice to be able to see what the landscape, and oslo, were like in the spring. i was really impressed with the city – and got to see many places that i hadn’t visited before. it was also nice to be there for the national day and to learn a bit about norway’s historical ties to denmark. so again, ‘thanks, scan|design…!’

my good friend liz maly is visiting me in copenhagen, and we decided to take a weekend trip to stockholm (one of my favorite cities!) to visit our friend and uw colleague heather burpee, who is there on a valle scholarship. we had a fantastic time – visited some museums, met up with some friends from copenhagen who were also visiting, and got to see hb’s side of stockholm. i would say that the highlights of the trip were an amazing meal of swedish meatballs at pelikan, seeing the restored ship at the vasamuseet, visiting traditional buildings from all over sweden at skansen (stockholm’s open-air museum) where we learned about the origins of falu red paint (which gives many rural swedish buildings their distinctive color), visiting the dalahäst (traditional carved wooden horse) museum, and being initiated into (and heavily practicing) the swedish tradition of fika, a verb meaning ‘to take a coffee break,’ one that often includes friends and snacks, between larger meals…a tradition that i will be taking back to the states, and anywhere else i go…anyway. although that seems to be a lot of ‘highlights’ for two short days, it’s definitely an indication of what a great time we had in stockholm. here’s the photo-illustrated version:

visiting bornholm’s round churches was one of the ‘themes’ of our trip. the collection of four churches is a kind of architectural icon for bornholm – they’re all similar in form, materials, and construction (though each has its own individual personality), and were all built between 1150 and 1250. they’re super practical buildings – the round shape of the churches allowed them to serve as storage places for grain and other commodities as well as to defend against viking raids during the unrest of the middle ages. there are also some theories afloat about a connection between the round churches and the knights templar, who were crusading around this time. the churches are two or three stories and are constructed of thick stone walls with central pillars that support circular barrel vaults on each floor. the conical roofs were added in 1600; before that, the churches were crowned with open battlements and embrasures (so they looked more like little castles). i really enjoyed visiting them – and they’re spaced out quite well on the island, so it gave us a chance to see a lot of the in-between. it was fun to search for them, because we could see the conical roofs from so far away…they’re definitely landmarks on the very rural island. and they’re lovely little buildings. so…here’s a mini-tour of bornholm’s round churches:


olsker church is the tallest and slimmest of the four churches – it’s on a hill and is so tall relative to its surroundings that it once served as a navigation point for fisherman at sea; it gets its name from the hero-king ‘olaf the holy,’ a major figure in a battle between the christians and the heathens

the buttresses were added in the 1800s to stabilize it/tiny apse

inside detail/outside detail

we got to climb up to the third level…via this wee door and steep staircase/the wooden roof construction is amazing!!

the round nave and tiny ship hanging from the ceiling; the upper part of the central column is painted with frescoes of biblical scenes/spiral stair to the choir


nyker church (‘new church’ or ‘all saints church’) was built from granite boulders, except for the central column, which was constructed using local limensgade stone

nyker was the smallest of the four churches, with only two stories (it used to have three, but the top level was removed with the battlements)

inside detail/outside detail

the frescoes on the central pillar at nyker church are from the 1300s

the round nave/view to the apse


østerlars (or ‘east st. lawrence’s’) is the largest (and i think most visited) of the four churches

its distinctive buttresses were added in the 1500s and 1600s to keep the walls from pushing outward/view looking straight up at the roof construction – crazy!

indoor detail/outdoor detail

the central pillar of østerlars church is so large that it is inhabitable – its nickname is ‘the oven’…the vaulted space is now used as a baptistery/view of the radiating pew boxes and the altarpiece

the lovely cemetery on the church’s exterior


nylars church is dedicated to st. nicholas

lovely site among the fields/cemetery churchyard

indoor detail/outdoor detail

view of the round nave and the choir…the frescoes on the central pillar of nylars church are the oldest preserved examples on bornholm and date to about 1250

i really liked the bluish color of the pillar stone (‘bornholm silurian limestone’)…and the frescoes depicting scenes from genesis: ‘the creation and fall of man in seven scenes’